The day began on a serene stretch of sandy beach, completely devoid of other visitors. From there, the journey ascended into the mountains through enchanting, goblin-like forests. Amidst the verdant landscape, occasional flashes of color appeared: electric-blue mushrooms, neon orange lichen, and the vivid red underside of a kākā’s wings as it flew close by. Emerging above the treeline revealed breathtaking 360-degree views of Fiordland National Park, one of New Zealand’s most remote and stunning regions.

The exploration focused on the 61km (38-mile) Hump Ridge Track, which will join New Zealand’s Great Walks in October 2024 following ongoing upgrades. This will be only the second new track added to the renowned collection in about 30 years.

New Zealand’s Great Walks are celebrated for their spectacular multiday treks, but securing a spot requires careful planning. Bookings for the most popular routes often sell out within minutes, as seen in 2023 when the booking system crashed with 10,000 people simultaneously trying to reserve a place on the 53.5km (33-mile) Milford Track.

Though it requires effort, it is certainly achievable. For those planning a trip to New Zealand, here’s a comprehensive guide to the Great Walks, including the upcoming Hump Ridge Track and the iconic Milford Track.

What are New Zealand’s Great Walks?

Managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC), New Zealand’s Great Walks encompass 11 multiday hikes, known as “tramps” in Kiwi, that reveal the country’s diverse landscapes, from volcanic plateaus to golden beaches.

These trails offer some of the most accessible backcountry experiences in Aotearoa (the Māori name for New Zealand). Hikers follow well-marked paths and stay in huts along the way, which are staffed by wardens and feature shared bunk rooms, kitchens, and outhouses. Some trails also allow camping.

The Great Walks vary in popularity, length, and difficulty, typically ranging from three to five days. Interestingly, not all are traditional hikes: the Whanganui Journey is a canoe trip, while mountain biking is allowed on the Paparoa Track and Heaphy Track in Kahurangi National Park.

How can I book a Great Walk?

Securing a spot on a Great Walk is akin to snagging Taylor Swift concert tickets—preparation is key, and having multiple people working on it can help. First, create a DOC account and mark your calendar for the booking dates.

For the 2024 season, which runs from October 2024 to April 2025, bookings will open on the following dates:

  • May 28 at 9:30 am NZST: Milford Track, Lake Waikaremoana Track
  • May 30 at 9:30 am NZST: Abel Tasman Coast Track, Rakiura Track, Whanganui Journey
  • June 5 at 9:30 am NZST: Routeburn Track, Paparoa Track
  • June 6 at 9:30 am NZST: Kepler Track, Heaphy Track, Tongariro Northern Circuit

On the day bookings open, be logged in and ready with your payment details and information for each hiker in your group, including names, ages, and country of residence.

The Hump Ridge Track is an exception, as bookings can be made directly on its dedicated website up to a year in advance.

Are there any insider secrets to scoring a Great Walk spot?

Being flexible with your travel dates can be helpful, but there are additional strategies to improve your chances of securing a spot.

Start by choosing your dates wisely. Bookings during the summer school holiday period, from late December to early February, are highly competitive. For better weather and availability, consider traveling in early December or March instead.

Interestingly, waiting a few hours after DOC’s booking system opens can sometimes work in your favor. Many hikers will initially book for their entire group, only to cancel duplicate reservations later in the day.

Additionally, spots might become available later in the season. The active Tramping in New Zealand Facebook group often shares updates about cancellations, helping members find newly available dates.

If your budget permits, you can skip the booking rush altogether by opting for guided tours. Companies like Ultimate Hikes offer packages for the Milford and Routeburn Tracks, including accommodation at private lodges, meals, transfers, and a 40L backpack. However, this convenience comes at a cost, with Ultimate Hikes charging upwards of NZD$2700, while independent hikers might spend less than NZD$500 for huts and transfers.

What’s the new Hump Ridge Track like? And is the Milford Track really worth the hype?

Both the Milford and Hump Ridge Tracks traverse the stunning Fiordland National Park, making them naturally comparable, but each offers a distinct experience.

The Milford Track, often hailed as the “finest walk in the world,” lives up to its reputation. Its breathtaking isolation and beauty are unparalleled, guiding hikers through valleys and over mountain passes where waterfalls cascade dramatically from the cliffs during rainy weather. The journey concludes in Milford Sound/Piopiotahi, a fjord surrounded by towering peaks that draws nearly a million visitors each year.

Securing a spot on the Milford Track can be quite challenging. For those still eager to explore Fiordland, the community-managed Hump Ridge Track provides a fantastic alternative. This trail takes you through subalpine terrain, home to endemic parrots like kākā and kea, and offers spectacular ocean views, including vistas of Stewart Island/Rakiura. Boardwalks follow ridgelines before leading into moss-draped forests.

The Hump Ridge Track features notable highlights such as walking across the longest viaduct in the Southern Hemisphere and the chance to swim with wild Hector’s dolphins at Port Craig, a historic ghost town where you’ll spend your second night. Additionally, there are premium options available, including private rooms with real beds, hot showers, flush toilets, and even helicopter transport for your pack to the first hut.

What are some alternative hikes? 

If you didn’t secure a spot for a Great Walk this year, there are two other beginner-friendly options to explore New Zealand’s backcountry.

Try a Great Walk day hike instead

Experience a portion of a Great Walk without the need to carry all your gear by using local tour operators and transfer services. For example, you can explore the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, a standout single-day hike that is part of the longer Tongariro Northern Circuit. Alternatively, enjoy a scenic section of the Whanganui Journey by taking a jet boat from Pipiriki to the Bridge to Nowhere, then paddle back to your starting point.

In Fiordland, Trips & Tramps offers a walking package that lets you sample the Kepler, Routeburn, and Milford Tracks over three consecutive days.

Choose a different multi-day walk

New Zealand offers numerous excellent hikes beyond the official Great Walks. Some top recommendations include the two-day Kauaeranga Kauri Trail in Coromandel, the Queen Charlotte Track in the Marlborough Sounds (which nearly became a Great Walk in 2019), and the more challenging Cape Brett Track in Northland.

When can I hike New Zealand’s Great Walks?

The official “Great Walks Season” runs from October to April, covering the southern hemisphere’s summer months.

While some Great Walks are accessible outside this season, only those with extensive backcountry experience and proper equipment should attempt them. From May to September, weather conditions can be severe, with potential flooding, freezing temperatures, heavy snowfalls, and high winds. During this period, huts are not staffed or serviced, and bridges may be removed from river crossings.

What do I need to pack for a Great Walk?

Huts along the Great Walks feature shared bunk rooms (earplugs recommended!) with sleeping mats, outhouses, and kitchens equipped with gas stoves and running water.

In addition to appropriate footwear and clothing – including wet weather gear for regions with high rainfall like the Milford Track – you’ll need to bring a sleeping bag, crockery, and all your food for the trip.

Fortunately, outfitters in towns and cities near the trailheads offer gear rentals and transfer services to and from the trailheads, making it easier to prepare upon arrival in New Zealand.

For detailed information about each Great Walk, including safety tips, elevation maps, outfitters, and suggested packing lists, visit the Department of Conservation (DOC) website.