Spanish late-night eating culture
One distinctive aspect of Spanish culture that stands out to tourists is the late timing of activities, particularly dining. Restaurants in Spain typically don’t open until around 8pm, and they don’t fill up until about 9pm. It’s common for dinners to extend to midnight and beyond. Interestingly, there’s no word for “evening” in Spanish, and the tarde (afternoon) can last until 6 or 7pm, making it uncommon to dine out any earlier.
This tradition has persisted for a long time, but recently, Spain’s Second Vice President and Labor Minister, Yolanda Díaz, criticized the nation’s dining habits. She argued that it’s unreasonable for restaurants to remain open until 1am and for work meetings to continue until 8pm. During a meeting with Spanish tourism leaders, she highlighted the significant difference in schedules between Spain and other European countries.
“It is not reasonable for Spain to be a country where we convene meetings at 8 in the evening. It is not reasonable for a country that has its restaurants open at 1 a.m.,” Díaz stated, suggesting that this late-night lifestyle could negatively impact the mental well-being of hospitality industry workers.
Díaz’s comments sparked backlash, especially from Isabel Díaz Ayuso, the president of the local Madrid government. Ayuso, who kept many of the city’s bars and restaurants open during the pandemic, responded on the social media network X, saying, “Spain is different. We have the best nightlife in the world with streets full of life and freedom. And that also promotes employment.”
Why does Spain eat later than its European neighbors?
Spain’s late dining habits are attributed to several factors, including a workday that extends longer and later than in most European countries, with businesses often closing for a few hours in the afternoon. Although Spaniards work an average of 37.8 hours per week, close to the EU average of 37 hours, their schedules aren’t as rigid as in other European countries.
Many businesses, including shops, close between 2pm and 4 or 5pm, allowing for a two- or three-hour lunch break during which Spaniards eat their main meal of the day. They then return to work and finish around 8pm. By the time they get home, cook dinner, or get ready to go out, it’s at least 9pm, shifting the entire day later.
Weather also plays a crucial role in Spain’s late-night dining habits. In the summer, it’s often too hot to cook and eat while the sun is up, so people typically wait until after sundown, around 9:30pm.
Dining times also vary across the country depending on the climate. For instance, in Andalucía in southern Spain, which experiences some of the hottest summer temperatures, bars and restaurants often stay open until 1am. Conversely, in the Basque Country in northern Spain, with an average summer temperature of 25°C (77°F), bars and restaurants typically close earlier, around 11pm.
Another factor is that Spain is technically in the wrong time zone. Based on its longitude, Spain should be in the same time zone as Portugal, Ireland, and the UK. However, during WWII, fascist dictator Francisco Franco changed the country’s time to align with Hitler and Germany.
In contrast, dinner times in other European countries are much earlier. In the UK, dinner is eaten around 6:30–7:30pm; in France, around 7:30–8:30pm; and in Sweden, it can be as early as 5–6pm.
Work-life balance
The Spanish schedule has drawn mixed reactions from both locals and expatriates. Some appreciate the vibrant late-night culture, while others call for a schedule more aligned with the rest of Europe to improve work-life balance and sleep quality.
Mireia Goula, a Catalan from Barcelona, says, “I think it’s fine for restaurants to stay open until 1am on the weekends; why not?” However, she has a different opinion about Spain’s late timetable during the week. “If we wake up and start work at the same time as other Europeans, then we should finish at the same time too,” she explains. “Timetables here are too late, and I think we don’t get enough sleep. Sometimes, it’s very difficult to even get out to eat before 9pm.”
Dan Convey, a Briton living in Spain, believes that Spain’s late-night bar and restaurant culture is more civilized than in the UK. “It’s a lot better going out to a tapas bar or restaurant until 1am rather than having to go to a nightclub because there are no other options open,” he explains. “It also means that alcohol is drunk in moderation and is always accompanied by food.”
A good work-life balance is very important in Spanish culture, and most socializing takes place around the dinner table or in restaurants. Therefore, when the workday is over, bars and restaurants play an essential role in bringing friends and families together for as long as possible. It’s not just about eating; people linger afterward to relax, chat, and enjoy drinks and coffee in what’s known as sobremesa.
Extra-long lunch breaks and afternoon siestas have mostly been phased out in big companies in major cities, but dining times don’t seem to be changing anytime soon. Despite political opinions, most Spaniards are proud of the late-night dining scene and can’t imagine eating dinner at 6pm. As summers keep getting hotter, dinners might even get later.